Rear Shock Modification

[Bigincher]

Who's your cad plater? Man, that was fast...!!

[Fabe]

I friend asked about the rear shock modifications and I thought to update this thread with the finished product. Here are my 13" New shocks after the correct lower cams are installed.


Here are the four pieces you will have to find. I got mine, along with a spare pair from the local HD shop. They were in a box and were part of a year end clearence sale. They were in pretty crappy condition.



There is actually a fifth piece. A small steel pin that presses into the hole and then slides into slot B



or Slot A

[panz4ever]

Fabe, thanks for the update. Hopefully I will have the same good fortune when I tackle the ones for my 84.

[t-jacobs]

Fabe,

Are the new 13" shocks also from Teds like the 11" ones were?
what is the Diff or purpose of the A & B slots?

[Fabe]

Fabe,

Are the new 13" shocks also from Teds like the 11" ones were?
what is the Diff or purpose of the A & B slots?

The Shocks I used are Ted's. I got a pair of 12" shocks that were identical to the 11" so I then traded them for 13's as I should have used in the very beginning. I never found out about why the Slot A vs. Slot B. It does not change the shock height, only the view of the shock as it is seen from the side.

I'm going to post photo's of the break down of the stock shocks and the build up of the new shocks after dinner.

[t-jacobs]

Thanks Fabe,
Sounds like I may do this with my 64.

[Fabe]

OK I'm totally against Ted's stuff now, but I got these shocks before I knew any better.

Photo one is the original 11" shocks that were on my bike but are now sitting in a "Useless junk drawer" Take care to mask the chrome of your shock where they will rest against the vise. Also use brass vise clamps to protect your HD parts.


Photo Two:
At the bottom of the shock you should see a cad plated clip that holds the shocks together. Using a special tool (short slotted screw driver) I pressed down on the spring and removed the clip.


Photo Three:
Wear gloves, this is a place where you could drive that screw driver into your hand because you are not using a special tool to press down on the spring.


Photo Four:
I removed the chrome adjuster, the two cams and the steel, rubber, steelwashers, leaving only the spring and shock assembly.


Photo Five:
Now is the time to get serious. I used two clutch plates and threaded stock to creat a clamp. I also use 100 MPH tape to protect more of the chrome and cad plating from the clutch plates. (Anyone not knowing what 100 MPH tape is, find a vet and ask him. Until then just use duct tape) I placed the four-piece old style cams into position with the bottom cam twisted 90 degrees to allow the shock to pass through.


Photo Six (not shown). Using even movements, I pressed the cams against the spring till the bottom of the shock passed through the lower cam. I then twisted the cam 90 degress to lock it into position.

Photo Seven:
This is the view you will have if you put the pin into slot A:


Sorry. The photo of slot B is no longer in my Photobucket account and has therefore dissapeared form this thread.

Be careful using even pressure and it's abreeze. Hope this helps. Oh, 3000 miles and my shocks are working just fine.

Fabe

[nucklheads]

You have some shocks that look just like the stock ones HD used on Panheads. That fancy look changed for Shovelheads while the shocks were the same size.

[MGHarley1]

Thanks for the Link and instructions Fabe. This will make a good winter project and give me something else to look for at the swap meets. When I get around to it, I am sure I might have some questions as my mechanical abilities are very rusted (my brother would say I was short changed in that arena).

[Fabe]

(my brother would say I was short changed in that arena).

This modification is so simple, even a Cave Man can do it.

Just find the correct cams for your '62. They are out there.