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Thread: Idle change

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    St. Pete Fl.

    Idle change

    Okay here is my dilemma, I have installed a electronic ignition and a 4 speed tranny in my chief. Since doing this the idle is defiantly changed. She fires right up and idles nicely cold and as she warms up she doesn't want to idle and wants to stall, there was no problems with idle before, intake manifold with no leaks or the carb to manifold. The carb was completely rebuilt before the new parts and ran great. If I keep it advanced she runs fast, retard it she wants to stall this is when its warmed-up/hot. I am at a loss on this one, any help would be appreciated, Thank you.

  2. #2

    Re: Idle change

    Warming up, dissimilar metals expand at different rates. Classically an intake air leak. Get it to idle after warming & spray a little something flammable on your intake manifold joints. Engine speed up momentarily?
    Sarge, Gerry Lyons, Fla.
    AGENT ORRNGE Survivor. So far.
    The Friendly Fire that Keeps on Burnin'.
    F.O.G. member:
    "It's a 1937, and the downside is, it's out of warranty"

  3. #3

    Re: Idle change

    After saying it won't idle hot what did you mean with " If I keep it advanced she runs fast, retard it she wants to stall this is when its warmed-up/hot." Do you mean it idles too fast or what?

  4. #4

    Re: Idle change

    Put the points back in to see what happens.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    St. Pete Fl.

    Re: Idle change

    When I start it cold she runs fine, idles no problem. Also when hot she will start first kick. When running after warm up and I have the distributor advanced she runs fast, when I retard the distributor she wants to die. there was NO problems before the electronic ignition was installed. The carb was not touched after electronic ignition was put in. It just started after that.

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2016
    St. Pete Fl.

    Re: Idle change

    Indianut, I was hoping not to have to do that!! But that will be the next option.

  7. Re: Idle change

    Check your charging system, electronic ignitions like to have steady voltage close to the upper output. ie below 9v on a 12v system the ignition will die. I've had it happen where it seemed like a fuel issue because the bike would die then run again. turned out to be a bad battery and was fluctuating below 9v, gaining some voltage through no spark, to then fire again.

  8. #8

    Re: Idle change

    Problem could be timing? I suggest check full retard and full advance timing and see if both are where they should be.

  9. #9
    Join Date
    Sep 2012
    35 mi east of Pittsburgh

    Re: Idle change

    Agree it seems like an intake leak. Perhaps the timing changed a bit when you reset it after the electronic install and the previous setting with points allowed masking of the root problem. I'd do the spray test Sarge mentioned cold and hot. Any change in idle up or down MUST be corrected. I routinely perform this simple quick test with Gumout throughout the riding season. If everything checks out, I'd probably try putting the points back in and see what happens.
    Last edited by Skirted; 05-29-2020 at 08:56 AM.
    Jason Z - S.W. PA
    48 Chief
    249 Scout
    249 Scout (Otis)

  10. #10

    Re: Idle change

    I think Choutman is on to something, check the state of the battery. At low idle the generator does not give any charge at all and that is normal. So the ign. system has to draw from the battery and if that is low the ignition dies. Connect jumper leads to a big healthy battery and see if things changes. You can also connect an inductive timing light (if you have 6V, connect the light to a auxiliary 12V battery) and might visually see on the blinking light if it is the ignition that croaks, or if not then it is something wrong with the fuel system, dirt, air leak or idle circuit. Also check valve lash when the engine is hot.
    Last edited by Charlie1012000; 06-17-2020 at 03:42 PM.
    Charlie 101

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