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Thread: piston buttons

  1. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    157

    Re: piston buttons

    Quote Originally Posted by axeric View Post
    "save the PEEK for something that is worthy"
    Ah, the 'save it for good approach'. One of my old bosses used to say "this is not a dress rehearsal, do it while you can".

    You're lucky your not buying PEEK over here.

    https://au.rs-online.com/web/c/?sra=...earchTerm=PEEK
    Last edited by Peter Cooke; 07-17-2019 at 02:53 AM.

  2. #12
    Join Date
    Sep 2013
    Location
    Victoria, Australia
    Posts
    157

    Re: piston buttons

    Quote Originally Posted by rob View Post
    What’s wrong with bronze?
    Could be a weight thing Rob. It's ~3 times heavier than aluminium.

    Pure speculation on my behalf.

  3. #13

    Re: piston buttons

    My question is why reinvent the wheel? What is wrong with the snap ring method? Are the buttons really an improvement? I am not a machinist or engine builder so I may be missing something. Thanks. John Lindemann

  4. #14
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    6,210

    Re: piston buttons

    John, I have a few cylinders that are deeply scored by errant wrist pin clips. I think the only clip I would really trust is the 'spirolock' type because they are so damn hard to remove. I'm not an engine builder either, so I'm just looking for idiot proof guidance

  5. #15

    Re: piston buttons

    Oh, OK. Good luck in your quest for a better way. You may be on to something. I have heard of snaprings failing like you describe. The instances I experienced have been few and far between. I am old fashioned I guess. I imagine some snap rings are faulty and will fail. Any other method will occasionally fail as well if not properly made or installed. Many failures, snap rings and others, are due to poor workmanship. I would never reuse a wrist pin clip but I bet lots have been reused by shadetree mechanics leading to failure. Good luck, I'm sure you will figure it out.

  6. #16
    Join Date
    Feb 2011
    Location
    Sarasota, Florida
    Posts
    6,210

    Re: piston buttons

    The other thing that concerns me is the snap ring groove in the piston. If the groove isn't deep enough, not of the right profile, and diameter for a particular snap ring, or it has been worn from too many installations. I know; I'm overthinking all this, but I think of the (otherwise) usable early Excelsior cylinder I have that was ruined by a deep groove from a wandering wrist pin.

  7. #17

    Re: piston buttons

    Yes, I'm sure there are many causes of a wandering wrist pin. I'm also quite sure that most are caused by improper installation or using parts worn beyond spec. What I'm getting at though is no matter what is invented, no matter how good it is, it is prone to fail if not used properly. I'm sure whatever you do will work out just fine because you are doing your homework.

  8. #18

    Re: piston buttons

    I used to make them of Teflon but a couple years ago I started using aluminum. At least 12 engines with it so far. I mean, the piston is alum, so why not the buttons
    !

  9. #19
    Join Date
    Jan 2014
    Location
    Bethesda, Ohio
    Posts
    362

    Re: piston buttons

    I had a shovelhead that lost a retaining clip & tore up the rear cylinder. I found that the rear connecting rod was crooked,putting what I assumed to be undue stress on the clips because the wrist pin wasn't traveling in a straight line with the cylinder,or at least that's what I thought. So whatever you use make sure the rods are straight??
    98 FLSTC TRIKE
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    68 TRIUMPH 650 TIGER CHOPPER

    You Ain't A Man Till You've Rode A Pan, I'm A Man...

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