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Thread: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

  1. Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    Is the head incorrect?

  2. #32

    Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    Yes the paint should be burned off ! Sorry had to go there!I like the bike as is.Ride em don't hide em.

  3. #33
    Join Date
    Jun 2009
    Western Australia

    Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    According to Bruce Palmer's book, M5 carb was for 1936–39 E and EL.

    I have Steve Slocombe’s revised fourth edition published 2007 and here is some of what it says about frames. For 32–36 they have a handlebar control bracket, with two holes, welded forward of the engine mounting bracket on the horizontal tube running under the fuel tanks. They also have a pin on the brake crossover shaft to locate the exhaust centre clamp.
    For 34-36 the frame just behind the rear mudguard support is dented in to provide clearance for the new wider mudguards introduced in 34.

    In your photo below, notice the frame forging doesn’t extend into the yellow box. It used to, and there was a boss to mount the 29 four-tube muffler. But about late-34 the boss was finally omitted from the forging. I can’t see any sign that a boss was cut off but it’s something you could check to be certain.

    For 35–36 a rectangular toolbox was used and it was mounted about where the one in your photos is. However, I can’t tell if that one is H-D or AM. The bracket is in roughly the normal position but I can’t tell if it’s original to the frame or not.

    Top of the head probably has ‘PAT’D 11-13-23’ cast-in and I don’t think there will be anything after it if low comp.
    If the letter H is found at the end of the patent ID then it may (?) indicate high comp.
    Also check underneath the heads for a cast-in letter M as this may (?) indicate medium comp. Steve provides a photo of one of these and the M is underneath, near the edge on the R-H side.

  4. Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    Quote Originally Posted by Speeding Big Twin View Post
    For 32–36 they have a handlebar control bracket, with two holes, welded forward of the engine mounting bracket on the horizontal tube running under the fuel tanks.
    Could this be the control bracket to the left of the red tape in the first two pics (right of red tape in third pic)?

    Last edited by wallofdeath; 05-02-2019 at 10:05 AM.

  5. Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    I recommend checking for the "dents" for rear fender clearance first. They're easy to see and hard to fake. The bracket you are referring to is what those 2 larger screws are attaching that bracket with the 2 cables to,in your picture #2. You really need to remove the tanks to verify the authenticity of the bracket brazed to the frame. Don't ask me how I know this. The fender clearance "dents" are a rectangular shape with straight lines at the edge of them.Put there by a die or mandrel as opposed to just with a hammer. I forget the site but there are frame diagrams out there that pinpoint the exact location of all added brackets, toolbox mounts, etc. It takes a little homework but if you're going to put the $$$$ into a judged bike it's REALLY important to make SURE that the frame and engine are from the same year since not having that is an automatic disqualification from judging. Buyer Beware! Trust No One! OK...rant over. Hope this helps.........Smitty

  6. #36

    Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    whats incorrect for 35

    ammeter incorrect
    paint scheme incorrect
    no inner primary nor clutch plate
    no dash switch levers
    no dash lamp
    coil is incorrect
    shift gate is modified
    carb is incorrect but valuable as swap item
    exhaust is homemade
    aircleaner is 36-up

    brakes are correct
    frame has bracket for toolbox so its 35-36 one
    do not see seat pan to judge
    check fork grease zerk position to see if its not 36
    check headlight body for stamp at backside
    and lens for script

    there is speedo drive but no speedo
    but corbin was an accessory item not standart

    looks fairly complete and correct otherwise,
    all parts missing and incorrect can be bought from Tom Feeser

    lil things like cable routing etc are just restoration things you have to do to make it correct
    and shouldnt hold you
    go get it if price is OK


  7. Re: 1935 VFD - purchase advice?

    I own a 1936 VFD, have a 1935 VFD under restoration, and my son has a 1934 VFD. All I can say is go for it and enjoy it.It has been listed out what is wrong with the bike but they are things that can be corrected. Just ride it. In Australia I have seen prices up to $35,000 AUD for a really good one. $1.00 AUD is about 70c US for comparison.
    Many of the V Series found in Australia are the low compression VFD and generally matched to locally manufactured sidecar as they were cheaper. Check the engine sprocket to see if it is 19 tooth for sidecar. You may want to change to 21 tooth if using solo.

    Rob the Piper

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