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Thread: 45 Coil or Carb?

  1. #21
    Join Date
    Oct 2009
    Location
    Snohomish, WA
    Posts
    356

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Quote Originally Posted by duffeycycles View Post
    The Rubber ducky & other floats don't have the same weight & boyancy as the original cork so a tad below the 1/4" is ok to control overflow,but not hanging up is important.
    A flaw in the Linkert float setup is that there is only one screw attaching the float to the float lever. If the float isn't positioned correctly, both fore and aft, as well as side to side, it can and will hang up somewhere. When that happens, the float can't shut off the float valve, and you get gas flowing out the vent hole.

    The best solution I've found (thx to Cotten!) is to use a dry-erase marker to paint the bowl stem all around. Assemble the bowl and float to the carb, and then gently turn the carb upside down a few times. Then take the bowl off and see if there are any spots where the marker pen has been wiped off.

    Repeat until you don't see any wiped off spots any more.

  2. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2015
    Location
    7,000 ft up on the Palmer Divide in the Colorado Rocky Mtns
    Posts
    354

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Since you haven't used the V-Twin coil yet, I'd run it on a known good running bike 'till it started to screw up, then, take it apart for all to see how crappy the materials were put in it. If it runs ok for the time being, maybe use it as a back-up coil. There's a thread on putting a good 2 post Jap coil inside

  3. #23
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    985

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    My new float got here today so now I can put the carb back together and see if this was the problem. I’ve set these floats up a few times in the past so it should go smoothly. I’m just hoping it solves the problem with this carb cleaning because my attempts to test any of the coils I have lying around here have only led to frustration. According to my test meter, none of my bikes should be running.

  4. #24
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Puget Sound, America
    Posts
    14,684

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Quote Originally Posted by ohio-rider View Post
    My new float got here today so now I can put the carb back together and see if this was the problem. I’ve set these floats up a few times in the past so it should go smoothly. I’m just hoping it solves the problem with this carb cleaning because my attempts to test any of the coils I have lying around here have only led to frustration. According to my test meter, none of my bikes should be running.
    Steve, did you see my thread on testing coils? It's not hard, but helps if you have an old timer laying around.
    52 HydraGlide
    59 Pan/Knuck Chopper
    77 Stroker Shovel FLH
    94 Evo Secret Components

  5. #25
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    East TN, just north of Chattanooga
    Posts
    971

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Maybe you have already replaced it but I would also suspect the condenser. The ones we get today are crappy. Both mine and my buddy's pan did as you described. A condenser swap and it was fixed - in both cases.

    Joe

  6. #26
    Join Date
    Nov 2007
    Location
    Puget Sound, America
    Posts
    14,684

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Quote Originally Posted by joe View Post
    Maybe you have already replaced it but I would also suspect the condenser. The ones we get today are crappy. Both mine and my buddy's pan did as you described. A condenser swap and it was fixed - in both cases.
    Joe
    Joe, if the condensers we get today are crap, what did you replace the faulty ones with?
    52 HydraGlide
    59 Pan/Knuck Chopper
    77 Stroker Shovel FLH
    94 Evo Secret Components

  7. #27
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    East TN, just north of Chattanooga
    Posts
    971

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    I buy older genuine HD off ebay. I think the ones from Echlin/NAPA are good - part number RR174. The JP stuff is the worst IMO

    joe

  8. #28
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    North East Ohio
    Posts
    985

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Sadly I don’t have an old timer setting around. My trusty multi meter is all I’ve got for testing things electrical. All the coils I have on hand and have tested come in at 1.5ohms cross the plus and minus side posts just as I believe they should. The thing is, I was expecting to find somewhere between 11k ohms and 18k ohms when testing between the minus side post of the coils and either of the spark plug hole connections and I get nothing.

    Joe, Since you mentioned it, I remember have a problem like this once with my panhead as well except it would idle fine but didn’t have any power under load. Once I get off my butt and into the shop and put the carb back together and test it, the condenser will be the next thing in line to change out.

    I know I could just throw a pile of cash at this problem and replace everything in the ignition system at once and be going down the road in a couple hours but what fun would that be? When I fix something I like to know exactly what it was that was broken and inspecting and testing one thing at a time is the way I like to do things so everyone please be patient with me.

  9. #29
    Join Date
    Aug 2008
    Location
    East TN, just north of Chattanooga
    Posts
    971

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Keep us posted, these are valuable learning opportunities for everyone :-)

  10. #30
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Missouri City, Texas
    Posts
    9,724

    Re: 45 Coil or Carb?

    Steve, an OEM and the Taiwan coil should ohm around 1.-1.5 on the primary. On the secondary (plug wires) the OEM ohms about 3.5k and the Taiwan about 17k. You should not get any continuity between the primary and secondary as they are separate wiring....

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