I have a tank that isn't in bad shape inside. I just cleaned it good with chemicals to remove the rust. What are some opinions on the kreem sealer? Should I even use it, or just use the tank as it is. Stan
I have a tank that isn't in bad shape inside. I just cleaned it good with chemicals to remove the rust. What are some opinions on the kreem sealer? Should I even use it, or just use the tank as it is. Stan
This topic is always guaranteed to get strong opinions, and here are my opinions:
First, don't use KREEM, terrible stuff. I like Red Kote and have used it on quite a few tanks with very good success.
The prevailing opinion (which I agree with) is, you don't need to use a sealer on tanks that are in good shape. However, if you don't ride the bike much you better drain the gas if it's going to sit. The ethanol, and other mystery chemicals in modern gas will rot a good tank that isn't lined. I know this first hand.
Gasoline is oil. If you keep your tank full it won't rust. When storing for winter top it off and add Sta-Bil to the gas.
Chris Haynes
A.M.C.A. Member
Costco Member
I can't Re Member
http://vintageamericanmotorcycles.com/
Be sure to register so you can view large photos
Chris, That is true to some extent. If you keep your tank full, it won't let condensation form, a big cause of rust. But if your ethanol enriched fuel has absorbed water it can drop out and fall to the bottom of the tank. That will cause rust, even in the absence of air. I have actual proof that rust will form in the absence of air. I left a solvent tank ( I use diesel ) full, when I went out of state for a couple years, when I came back I went to clean the wash tank out and found multiple rust through holes in the bottom of the tank. The only thing that saved 20 gallons of diesel from spilling all over the shop was the coating of paint on the outside of the tank. So the point is ethanol will absorb water, but I don't believe a full tank will absolutely stop all rust from forming. I do agree Kreem is shit. It will dissolve in the modern fuel. I have used the POR-15 product and had good results, but prefer good uncoated metal. Short of draining the fuel and filling with 30 weight, filling with a good grade of non ethanol fuel is probably your best bet.
I agree with every ones statements. All are valid. Pick your poison. Toss the Kreem from your mind to start with. I've heard nothing but bad from close friends and contacts about Kreem. I've heard and experienced only good about Red-Kote.
No strong opinion here but I've had kreem in one of my tanks for over 5 years of crap michigan "gas" with no problems.
Fix the metal, no coating is what I use.
Last edited by brianbbs67; 10-17-2015 at 12:11 AM.
1977 XL CE (tribute)
1970 XLCH
1961 XLCH
2010 XL883N
Thanks for the opinions. I decided just leave my tank alone, and spray some WD 40 inside until I add gas. in a year or so. As for
Kreem, I think the tank condition before any sealer is important. Stan
WD40 will evaporate. WD40 is water based. Seal all the opening and toss a quart of 30w motor oil in and slosh it around periodically. Motor oil does not evaporate.
Time to revisit this kreem tank sealer. With my vote for don't use it! I took a ride on Memorial day. Rode around for about 3 hours. Topped my tank off and parked my bike. Fast forward 5 weeks. It's time for the 4th of July parade. Pull the bike from the garage. Turn on fuel. Fuel rod want budge. Can't turn it by hand. I had a hard time to move it with pliers. When i removed the gas cap All i saw was horror. I've pulled bikes from the woods with cleaner tanks. The kreem had blistered up. Bottom of the tanks are sheets of rust. Fuel rod is eaten away. I'm was blaming this on kreem but now thinking that i but horrible gas in there. When i pulled the drain on my Mikuni it was filled with aluminium sludge. I have a fuel filter between the tank and carb. When i pulled it. It was nice and clean inside. I guess the gas was like an acid.
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)
Bookmarks